“He bites my hands when I want to play or cuddle with him! It bites my nose when I carry it in my arms! It bites my calves when I walk through the apartment! ”

What new puppy owners can almost drive to despair is, first of all, normal puppy behavior: Puppies explore the world with their mouths because they have no hands and with her teeth.

They also like to play and this includes brawling.

You have to learn that the other person doesn’t always find it funny and that they hurt us humans when they’re too wild.

Often it is enough to squeak or shout “Aua!” And briefly interrupt the game: The puppy notices “if I play too much, the other one is tired”. But as with human children, in the heat of the game it can happen that the message doesn’t get through. That people continue to rage because it is so fun.

If I now push my puppy away, as is unfortunately often recommended, it may well happen that he thinks it is an invitation to a funny game and really accelerates. If I push harder, I get used to rough brawls. I can only achieve an effect if I immediately push so hard that my puppy is very scared and stunned. But do we really want to treat a dog child like this?
The same applies to spray bottles, water pistols, discs, jelly cans and what they are all called: they scare the dog and intimidate him. He may no longer dare to bite us, but it has not taught him how to play with us.

Please do not let them tell you that you will lose your status as pack leader if you “give up” the fight against a puppy instead of fighting back! Your puppy doesn’t want to fight with you! If a three-year-old steps in your shin, don’t think (hopefully!) That he wants to fight with you.

Aside from the theories about packs and pack leaders (which are long outdated, but explaining that would go a little far at this point), it is often argued that dogs would do the same with each other. But if you observe how a confident adult dog treats a puppy, it is one thing above all: very, very patient. And if the young one has bitten his lips and ears long enough … he gets up, lifts his head out of reach and leaves.

Of course, it happens that a completely annoyed dog mom sometimes regulates a puppy. Or that the siblings simply bite back.

However, we do not have to deal with our dogs like this: we are human and have other options.

But the most obvious of these possibilities, our ability to speak, only seems to help us at this point:

If my puppy goes crazy and I then say strictly “Out!” Or “No!”, My dog ​​recognizes the unfriendly one Sound and may react intimidated. If I lean over and look at him (he is small), I also appear threatening and intimidate him even more. The word itself means nothing to him. He may stop the unwanted behavior for the moment – but he doesn’t learn how to play with us.

Too wild a game can usually be redirected to a cuddly toy, into which the puppy can bite to his heart’s content. If these are not attractive enough at such a moment, a delicious piece of beef jerky may help (it can be big enough so that he cannot accidentally swallow it) or a filled Kong. Instead of your own calf or trouser leg, a handful of chunks of feed can be released for hunting, which are rolled over the floor.

However, it is important that the behavior is redirected BEFORE he bites!

Otherwise he may learn that there is always a party when you bite people …

Otherwise, praise and reward any behavior that you like! Tell him what he’s doing right!

A puppy playpen and / or a house leash serve as emergency measures.
As soon as you notice that your puppy will “turn up” again and start to bite, take him calmly and friendly and put him in the playpen: This way you can keep him at a distance without “handicaps”. A house line, a piece of soft cord that you attach to your dishes works in a similar way: you can simply use it to keep it away from you. Of course, you can just close a door in front of the little bite. However, social isolation is a severe punishment for dogs. And actually you wish so, he also learns eventually relaxed to stay alone. For this, “being locked out” is not a good start.

He is still with you in the playpen or on the house line and you can praise him as soon as he calms down.

It is even nicer, of course, if you manage to finish games calmly before he bites.
For this purpose, a signal iSv “this is now over, now is pause” is helpful: Every time you end a common activity (be it playing, cuddling, or a small training session), you speak the signal (for example, “pause”, “End” etc.) and do nothing for a moment. First use the “end” signal only in situations in which your puppy is (still) calm and notices it. Then later you can use it even when he’s excited.

In the unlikely event that your puppy gets stuck, please keep quiet first of all. Dogs tend to follow up if you pull something away from them. And if they have already got it, it becomes a tug-of-war – this can be done with dummies and gnomes, but also with trouser legs and toes …

Carefully slide your fingertips (eg thumb and middle finger of one hand) from both sides into the corners of the mouth. The line automatically opens.
Small dogs can then be picked up by reaching under the rib cage with one hand from behind. The index and middle fingers are pushed between the front legs, the other fingers behind the front legs surround the chest. With the other hand you stabilize the bottom. Keep your head away from yourself.

With larger dogs, you push your hand between the forelegs so that the chest lies on the forearm. Thumbs and fingers each encompass one side of the chest from the front.
So you can hold your puppy for a moment until it has calmed down, or you can put it in its playpen without it biting any further.

Do it calmly and lovingly! Even if he should have hurt you, even if you may be frustrated and angry, it’s not about “showing him now”. They just help him calm down.

If the tips mentioned do not work and your puppy (or young dog) continues to “turn up” quickly and react vehemently, it is worth taking a look at the daily routine:
Many puppies and young dogs are completely overwhelmed with the best of intentions (too many and too long walks , too much action, too little rest) and then react like children who go overboard when they have missed the time to go to bed.

Puppies should rest for 20 to 22 hours a day. So sleep, doze, lie around relaxed. Walks  should not take longer than 5 minutes at a time. Game phases (for example in the garden), in which the dog can take breaks himself, may take longer if he actually takes the breaks. But then they replace at least one walk. Everything that is exciting (and if they are just getting to know the world, this applies to pretty much everything) should be followed by a long break.

Just lie down: cuddling and taking a nap is good for us too!

The post How To Stop A Puppy From Biting Everyone appeared first on Dog Fiesta Online.

Turning a puppy into a well-behaved dog will take a lot of time, patience and love, but your attempts will bear fruit in the long run. A well-trained puppy will become a wonderful dog to have around, while not training your puppy could mean that you will soon have a dog in your hands which will always create problems for you. Start training your puppy by establishing a good relationship with him and then go on to teach him all the important commands he will have to know in life.

How can you educate your dog? When it comes to educating your dog , try to always keep in mind patience and love for him, it will be the basis of success!

Things you should keep in mind when give training to your dog

• If your dog is an adult or a senior, never give up. And even if your dog is too puppy or too old, it is never too late to start training and educating your pet.
• If you share your life with a puppy, you can start your education by teaching the basic rules.
• If on the contrary, it is an adult or senior dog, it is always in time to assimilate new things!

10 basic tips to educate your dog

If you have finally decided to educate your pet, try to dedicate an extra dose of love and affection. Educating a dog takes a while so don’t despair!
Patience, the key: Remember! The learning process will progress little by little. So do not despair if your pet ignores you the first few times. Try to teach him to rule by rule, so that he assimilates them.

Be Patient: Repeat the training again and again! And most importantly, don’t be discouraged if you don’t move forward as fast as you would like. Repeat the commands and be patient, you will achieve it.

How to teach your dog basic tricks.

Be clear: For your pet to understand you, use few words (and better be short).

For example:
• Come
• Sit
• Lay down
• Still

The awards, that great ally
Every time your dog does something right, give it a caress, compliment, or a treat! Remember our post about prizes and penalties for our pet. With positive reinforcement, training your pet will be a piece of cake!

Don’t punish your dog
Correct canine training cannot be based on punishment methods under any circumstances; on the contrary, we must always use positive reinforcement as a fundamental tool.
Know that means?

The positive reinforcement is to reward the dog with specific treats for dogs, caresses and even with kind words when it shows behaviour that we like when it responds well to command or simply when it is calm. This allows the dog to positively associate a certain action. Do not punish your dog for what he does wrong; reward him for what he does well.

Training, better in quiet places
To start any canine training exercise it is of great importance that your dog is free from distractions, since only then can he concentrate fully on you and on what you ask. Avoid external stimuli that are excessive such as street noise or the presence of other dogs as they can distract him. Start the exercises when he is relaxed and enjoys a completely calm environment. For an command, always use the same term. And also remember, what you allowed today, you can’t ban tomorrow! Otherwise, you would be confusing him!

Talk in family: Before taking the step and educating your pet, get the whole family to agree. If you are going to teach him commands, agree on the words you are going to use.
• It would not hurt to fix what you are going to allow and forbid. In this way, there will be no confusion when it comes to training him!
• If you want your dog’s training to progress, try to be in an environment of tranquillity. If you are nervous yourself, you will not get anything!
• One option you can try is to train your pet while playing

Concrete physical and verbal cues: At the time of educating a dog, we will use words and gestures, in this way the dog understands exactly what we expect from him and helps him remember more easily. Both the physical and the verbal signal must be always the same, otherwise, the dog will be confused and will not know exactly what he is asked for. They must be simple signals and the tone of voice must always be firm.
Using body language will help in the future if your dog suffers from hearing impairment when he grows up.

Training in different situations
For the training process to give all the expected results you must practice the exercises with your dog in different situations once you have them assimilated. If your dog always obeys the command “sit” in the kitchen, it may be that he is confused and that when he is outside of that environment he does not recognize it or thinks he should not execute it.
It is for this reason that you must train it in different environments, in the same way, it is very important for your learning that you vary the order of the exercises.

Have fun with your dog.
Undoubtedly, another of the keys to educating dogs effectively is to have fun with them while we train them. If the dog notes that we are bored or have turned the training sessions into a routine that does not awaken us any interest, he will perceive it and adopt the same attitude. In this sense, we recommend playing games with the dog that, also, reinforce your bond, stimulate your mind and encourage learning.

How to train a puppy
Puppies do not need to be trained, because they simply just think about playing and having fun. It is only after five or six months when we can begin to train them little by little and in a very soft and playful way. We must never force or stress them. The ideal age to start training a dog is from one year of age, smoothly and progressively.

Puppies only need to play and run, interact and socialize with other dogs… let them be happy, there will be time to learn. However, when you see them doing something wrong like biting people (they will play it evidently), you can use with the “No!” commands so they begin to learn little by little.

Adult dog training
They say you can’t teach older dog new tricks, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. Even if you have adopted a new adult dog that needs some help with the basics, or if the dog needs just a short reminder, here are some tips on his training.

Being Consistent is the key
Whatever the behavior of an adult dog you are facing, the basic training principles used for puppies will still apply. Training an adult dog already accustomed may require a little more time and patience.

First and foremost, it is vitally important to be consistent with the commands and praise. It is also important to ensure that all family members know the objectives of the training and how to use the commands correctly, to prevent your dog from receiving conflicting messages that may confuse him.

Praise instead of punishing
Dogs learn by positive reinforcement. This means that you can only reach your goals by praising the behavior you want to encourage and teach your dog what good behavior is. Punishing your dog for bad behavior probably causes him to behave worse, and it will make it harder to train him in the right way.

The post 10 Tips On Successfully Training Your Dog appeared first on Dog Fiesta Online.

The puppy leaves his family at about 8 to 12 weeks of age and thus also his previously known world.

Many new situations patter on the puppies – everything is different and unusual at first.
Depending on their origin – and what the puppies got to know from the breeder or their family of origin – they are able to react differently and adapt accordingly to the new environment. This can vary from very anxious to very curious and of course also depends on the character of the respective puppy (Shyness-Boldness-Continuum).

This uncertainty is easy to recognize when you present a new item to the puppy and While carefully approaching the nose, the buttocks remain in the same spot for as long as possible and the young dog stretches longer and longer. They often startle when exploring and the throat, previously giraffe-like, has shrunk back to normal length very quickly.

This behavior makes great biological sense: new things are always potentially dangerous! In nature, the cautious simply survive longer! No one who wanted to examine the bear’s fangs in detail in the wild has managed to reproduce afterwards !!
Biologically speaking, fear of novelty is extremely useful.

But how can we now help our anxious puppy to find courage to get to the bottom of (harmless) things?

1. We give the puppy all the time in the world. He can explore things at his pace.
2. We can support the puppy by engaging ourselves (or pretending to be the most exciting thing in the world) and by encouraging the puppy to volunteer! to also deal with the subject. (The puppy chooses his comfort distance.)
3. If the objects are moving, we may be able to make sure that we take out movement. For example, if the rolling garbage can is scary, we can have the puppy try exploring when the bin is standing.
4. We can reward the puppy for “safe observation from a distance”. To stay in the example: If someone rolls the bin, we look at a distance at which the puppy is still comfortable and reward the quiet look. When looking, the puppy grapples with the bin and learns.
5. If something strange comes to him and he is looking for protection from you, please protect him. It is vital that the puppy learns that it can rely on you.
6. Ultimately, you can also commute back and forth.
   It is a training technique that is very quick and effective. As details matter, ask your trainer for instructions.

Isn’t it a little bit faster?

As mentioned at the beginning, your dog’s curiosity is also anchored in his personality structure.
Now force a puppy to disregard its natural limits, e.g. For example, by luring the puppy to the scary object with treats, they add additional stress to the “stress” (purely physically, the dog feels stress when he is in conflict between approach and distance). With feed-loving animals, it can happen that they come closer due to the attractant, because they only have the feed in their head and hide the “danger”. and suddenly they find themselves in a situation they would never have gotten into without food. A wild attempt to escape starts.
This can be dangerous at times, and your dog will surely approach the next time more carefully than courageously.

So my recommendation is: No, please do not try to accelerate anything. You still have a whole dog’s life. Be patient with yourself and your dog. Enjoy the small steps.

Your dog will thank you and you won my heart!

The post What to do with Anxious Puppies? appeared first on Dog Fiesta Online.

The size of the puppy group is crucial

One of the most important learning goals of a puppy group is the further learning and practicing social competence. This is about the puppy gaining as much good experience as possible with other puppies or adult dogs. If a dog has the opportunity to learn that his attempts to communicate with other dogs are worthwhile, an important cornerstone is laid in dealing with other members of the species. The smaller the puppy group, the better the trainer can supervise game units. The game partners should fit together well in size and temperament. A good game is always balanced and reciprocal.

In puppy play the rule is: less is more!

Puppies are quickly tired and often overwhelmed by many impressions. Playing is also very tiring. If the dog’s arousal level increases during a long game phase, the likelihood that undesirable behavior will occur, such as changing his dog, several dogs chasing a dog (bullying) or excessive snaping and biting. Negative experiences can be avoided in advance: good observation of the dogs, anticipatory action by the trainer and short, high-quality play units. Game and training sessions should alternate.

A good learning atmosphere is important

All participants in a puppy lesson – whether human or dog – should feel comfortable during the lesson. A friendly tone, a sympathetic trainer and a lot of fun with the training create a good learning atmosphere. It is also important that each human-dog team is addressed individually, so that the training can be designed to be highly effective and targeted. In addition to learning a high level of everyday practicality for the dog, theoretical learning content is also important for the dog owner: How do dogs communicate? How do you correctly assess the body language of the four-legged friends? How do I intervene in time if my dog ​​feels uncomfortable in the game? Ideally, people and dogs learn together.

Stay away from training methods that cause fear in the dog

Imagine yourself in a state of stress and fear: learning at such a moment is very difficult for you, isn’t it? In the worst case, learning cannot even take place. The learning behavior of our four-legged friends is the same. If the dog is under the influence of fear or stress, learning becomes almost impossible. If, for example, punishment by intimidation (alpha throw, snout handle, splashing water), pinching, kicking, loud scolding, leash pushing, spiked collar, spray collar, throwing chains, training discs and electric collars are used during the training session “for education”, it is not only the trust between humans and dogs sustainably damaged but also favors fear and stress.

Should I go to the puppy play group with my puppy?

In order to be able to finally answer this question, many factors play a role. How big is the puppy group? Are the dogs encouraged according to age? What experiences can the puppies have in the puppy group? Is there a good learning environment – for humans and dogs? What training methods are used? Before the puppy moves in with you, you should look at different groups in advance. So you can get a comprehensive picture, after all, not only should your four-legged friend be well, You too should feel comfortable and have fun while studying. Not only the dog learns in the dog school you too..

The post Should You Go to the Puppy Play Group with Your Puppy? appeared first on Dog Fiesta Online.

Oh yes, I forgot, then there is sometimes a totally social adult dog that takes care of the young children a bit for breeding and order and makes sure that everything is well behaved.
And the people (and the trainer) stand next to them, shouting ecstatic Aaahs and Ohhhhs.

If a puppy comes to him, the coffee-drinking trainer suddenly speaks up and often advises that you should not make a mistake and send the puppy back immediately, ignore it and never pick it up, otherwise the dog never learned to deal with other dogs .

Since people are observing properly, they naturally notice certain things. That one or the other Pupsi is pretty dominant . Or early . Or submissive .
Not infrequently one notices that the people of the aspirants for the ” pack tour ” swell a little bit the chest and that those with the reserved, anxious dogs look a little disappointed from the wash.

After an hour of free-running, the little putzis are so ready that they don’t say a peep for the rest of the day. However, some people are now freaking out and do not see why they should be put on a leash and the fun should be over, others then romp around the table and benches again at home and still somehow do not seem to have their necks after hours to get full enough.

MY URGENT TIP:
If it actually goes like this, take your dog and legs in your hand.
Why? Because something is totally counterproductive!

Regulated game and different age groups

There are certainly also well-run puppy play groups, in which it is actually not a matter of pulling the moneyout of people’s pockets with very little effort, but rather of teaching the dogs to be “nice” with one another. Such groups certainly do not have more than three or a maximum of four puppies, are at best mixed-age groups and are led by a competent trainer who trains people in the body language of the dogs, among other things.
Because what the layperson interprets and what he thinks is very often no longer a game.

One hour of free running is a no go!
Good game often only lasts a few minutes. Playing is very tiring and the line between play and seriousness is very narrow! A game can tip over quickly and a coach should recognize this before it happens and interrupt the game on the spot. Playing has to be learned, that is not innate. Therefore, pure puppy play groups make little sense. Mixed age groups would be much more instructive for the youngsters. Because what should a puppy learn from another puppy, both of them can’t do anything yet?

Lots of breaks and relaxation

A few good minutes of play should alternate with long breaks. The puppies should learn that you can not only romp when other dogs are around, but also rest when other dogs are in sight.

This already sets the course for whether a dog later regularly breaks out when he sees other dogs or whether he can stand it well to see a dog without having to go straight there.

The trainer should be able to recognize bullying AND above all prevent it! Because both the bullied puppy will learn a lot as well as the bullying – and not a good thing. The bullied person will become more fearful or learn to defend himself aggressively, the bullying person will learn to succeed with his unsocial nature and will solidify his behavior.

However, it is extremely important at this time that the little ones have as many good experiences as possible. A high number of social contacts is not necessary at all. Here too, as is so often the case, quality instead of quantity! Better two or three good contacts than just one bad one. This bad contact can traumatize the puppy so much that it will develop undesirable behaviors in order to keep other dogs off the neck later.

Bad experiences come early enough that can hardly be avoided. But if he has already collected many good ones, there is a good chance that he will get along with one bad one.

Arousal control

The puppies should never be allowed to “play” in the play group until they overturn. If a dog really ticks off afterwards, then you can be pretty sure that the workload was far too much and the little one cannot come down on its own. This is often misinterpreted as “It can’t be broken”. Not correct! Less is often more.

And very often, the high level of excitement of the dogs is due to the fact that they overturn, do not come down, are fidgety, bark or that they ride up and start rushing and bullying others. This has nothing to do with dominance and early development.

If a game is not balanced, it is definitely NOT a game anymore. The coach’s job is to ensure that a game remains a game. And he should make people’s eyes aware of it so that they know when to intervene in everyday encounters and when not.

Provide protection

If a puppy seeks protection from its human, it should definitely be granted it! Then he would like to come back into the game – great. Would he rather watch from a distance – also great! Because even if you watch, you learn a lot – and stay calm and watch. A quality that will suit you very well later!

Humans should not be tempted to divide dogs spiritually into winners and losers. After all, this is not a competition! There are brave dogs and fearful ones. There are agile and less agile dogs. There are those who like to frolic in the middle of the fray and those who prefer to watch the edges. There are game-crazy people and those who think that games are overrated.

Each dog is individually and with its own preferences – just like humans, by the way. You shouldn’t force a puppy to do anything, and especially not when he’s scared.

Real game is balanced

You should really only have one goal in mind:
The encounters should be friendly and balanced. The puppy should learn what it means to politely approach another dog and to play with it in such a way that the other perceives this as a game.

No puppy can learn on its own! Sayings such as ” They take care of it themselves ” speak clearly against the qualifications of the trainer and should be acknowledged with immediate termination of the course.

Because of course the dogs take care of it themselves is always at the expense of the weaker – with unforeseen long-term consequences.

The post Puppy Play Groups – Sense or Nonsense? appeared first on Dog Fiesta Online.

✓ Management

The be-all and end-all to avoid unwanted behavior on the one hand and not to let it be practiced on the other. Everything that is sacred to you and that the dog must not get between his teeth or knock over, you should bring to safety. Provide your dog with enough alternatives to play or chew so that he can meet his needs afterwards.

✓ Promotion of stress-free getting to know new situations and stimuli

Your dog should be able to explore new situations and stimuli in a relaxed and uninhibited manner. Allow him as much time as he needs. If you are already familiar with marker training (eg clicker), you can reward your puppy precisely for approaching creepy objects.

✓ Practice touching

You can playfully touch the puppy, which you need for later veterinary or nursing measures. Important: do not force your puppy to do anything! We do not want him to be afraid of it, but that he would like to cooperate with us.

✓ Train / promote bite inhibition

There are many things you can do to teach your dog to use his teeth wisely. For example, you should only play with the dog with a toy and never allow him to bite your hand or clothes. The careful acceptance of food from the hand and the handing out of things that the dog takes into its mouth are also beneficial.

✓ Stay alone training

All puppies should learn to be able to stay alone in the apartment or house for some time. It is important to start this training step by step and ideally when the dog is tired from a walk or play. A chewing job is also a good way to bridge the gap.

✓ Promote house cleanliness

In short: Didn’t the puppy take care of the apartment well enough! Pay attention to early signs that the puppy has to go: eg by scratching, whimpering, up and down or walking in a circle. Mostly this is after playing, after eating and after sleeping.

✓ Watch the game

Do not leave your dog unattended when playing with other dogs. On the one hand you can intervene immediately if necessary and on the other hand you learn a lot about dog behavior!

✓ Family rules

Establish rules:
where can the dog go? (eg on the guest sofa)
Where shouldn’t he go? (eg in the kitchen)
What should the dog do in certain situations? (eg if he is leashed, he should sit down)
Hang it up visibly for all family members. If everyone follows these rules, your dog will learn desired behavior faster.

✓ Acquire knowledge of body language

Last but not least: Recognizing, understanding and correctly interpreting the dog’s body language will help you with your assessment in all situations. School yourself in it! Read books about it and watch the dogs play and interact.

The post 9 Tips for New Dog Parents appeared first on Dog Fiesta Online.

Tip 1:

Many puppies usually have to loosen up often ….

• after sleeping
• after long breaks
• after eating & drinking
• after playing

Give your puppy the opportunity to do so after all of these things.

Tip 2:

A quiet release point!

It helps the puppy a lot if they can loosen up where there is no distraction. Because the world is so exciting and because of sheer curiosity and excitement you can forget the business outside even though it was actually urgent.

A fixed release point is also a good idea.

Please don’t talk to the puppy, he doesn’t understand it anyway. Just keep calm, wait and reward if successful.

Make sure that nothing interesting happens around it or that exciting toys are lying around and that you already have the delicious smelling cookies in your hand, which the puppy cannot then look away from.

Tip 3:

Watch the puppy “always” if possible!

One should always watch out for the smallest signs that may indicate that the puppy has to go.
For example, they can be:

• sit in front of the door
• a very brief look at the door
• intensive sniffing on the floor
• pause briefly
• spinning in circles
• increased panting
• whine
• Look at the owner longer
• sudden restlessness / walking around

The more often the puppy has the opportunity to loosen up outside and be rewarded for it, the faster he will be house-trained. It is also not pleasant for a puppy to have to loosen up in the living area.

So you ALWAYS have to count on it and be ready to go from one second to the next!

Do not let the puppy out of sight at the beginning to avoid mishap in the house / apartment. After a while you will find out how often the puppy has to go – this is completely different from dog to dog!

Tip 4:

Reward the desired behavior!

Once the puppy has done his business outside, reward him with a treat or a short game for it. Please only start with this when the business is done so that you don’t interrupt the puppy prematurely.

Tip 5:

NEVER punish your puppy for loosening in the house / apartment !!!

Puppies are not born house-trained and it takes time. Puppies can control their bladder muscles a little more consciously at the earliest at around 3-4 months and may therefore be able to endure a little more or draw attention to themselves in good time.

If an accident has happened, please remove it quietly and without comment. Ideally with an odor neutralizer, so that the place does not continue to smell like dog toilet.

Tip 6:

Let the puppy sleep near you at night!

So you will notice when he wakes up. Then it’s time to go out immediately! Everything nice and quiet, as little light as possible, not talking much, not playing games … and then immediately sleeping on.

Please don’t set the alarm clock to wake your puppy at night! He makes itself felt when he has to. And maybe he can hold out for a few hours at night without having to get out. At night it is quite different from during the day, the whole metabolism goes down.

Tip 7:

Do not rely on the tip that puppies have to come loose every two hours!

Every puppy is different and totally individual. Some people have to go out every 30 minutes during the first few days, the other every 3 hours. There is no “golden rule” that every puppy would automatically follow.

Try to find out how often you have to get your dog out to avoid as many mishaps as possible.

Every dog ​​has to learn to be house trained and that takes time and patience!

I hope you enjoy training!

The post 7 Tips to House Train Your dog appeared first on Dog Fiesta Online.

“… and then he suddenly freaks out completely: yap, jump up on me, bite into my jacket … what can I do about it?”

At this point you can often hear the advice to get the dog out of it properly, because he is obviously not underutilized. So the walks are extended, dog buddies are romped around and if you already do that, you look for an agility course or let the dog run on the bike. Or both. He is also enthusiastic about it, but is still freaking out … then you just put the ball in while walking, chasing it is obviously fun.

And not only that: He is really demanding that!
As soon as you are back home, he comes and wants to trick!
He just doesn’t get calmer …

Because the other way around it turns into a shoe: Dogs need a lot more rest than their humans can often imagine.

Depending on age and health, a dog can and should rest an average of 17 to 22 hours a day. So sleep, doze, dream, lie around relaxed. Of course, it does not hurt if he is sometimes active longer, but if dogs get too little rest permanently, they react like children who have missed the right time to go to bed: They are becoming more and more active, more and more wild, finally over-revving and become uncomfortable.

This also applies to those breeds that you hear about again and again, they need an above-average amount of movement. Above all, the following applies to young dogs:
The rule of thumb for puppies and young dogs is “5 minutes walk at a time”.

Yahaha, they don’t look at the clock while playing and romping, but unlike a walk, you can decide here when you want to take a break. And so you can actually sometimes see puppies falling asleep in the middle of the game hour. However, many young dogs still have no idea when they have enough – you have to break or take them out of the situation at some point so that they can recover.

“But he’s totally enthusiastic about it … if he didn’t want to, he wouldn’t have to!”

… We have selected most dog breeds for cooperation with humans, possibly for a ” Will to please “, and if we then wave with a leash or ball, they do us a favor – even if they would rather take a nap by themselves . At some point, some dogs will not be able to do this themselves: they will not come to rest without help. A vicious cycle begins.

“If I did so little with that, he would take my apartment apart!” …

This can certainly happen: once I have accustomed my dog ​​to a high level of activity and he is unable to calm down, he tries to backtrack the program to a healthy level overnight .

But I don’t have to let it get that far – especially with young dogs: if my dog ​​over revs towards the end of the walk, the next one should be shorter and / or less eventful. Then there is romping with other dogs or attending the dog school not on top of that, but instead.

A diary may help here, in which I note how long we were on the road and what exactly we did: were we relaxed strolling in familiar surroundings or were we in new, exciting places? Did we train or play something? Have there been dog encounters?

A walk that seems completely normal to us can be a very exciting thing, not only for young dogs: an unknown environment can be very stressful for an unsafe dog, for another it may be dog encounters and if he struggles with fear dog can be completely exhausted even after a few minutes.

In addition, what has been learned only moves from short to long-term memory when the brain takes a break (a relaxed walk, or a game with a good buddy can be such a break, but not every dog). New experiences are processed during sleep: This applies above all to puppies, but also to adult dogs.

My dog ​​Oskar, for example, already learned as a puppy that horses are uninteresting: If we meet one, he sorts himself next to me on the side facing away from the horse and we calmly walk past it. He has not needed a corresponding signal for years.

But then we have the opportunity to visit a friend’s horse in his box! First he takes cover behind me and takes a nose with a very long neck. A moment later, he ventures closer. And then the big animal lowers its head to him and sniffs him!

Oskar is deeply impressed. Since the horse is a relaxed and friendly contemporary, the encounter remains completely unspectacular. But although we don’t do anything else, my dog ​​sleeps soundly for two hours.It was so exciting !

A dog is not well used when he has had hours of exercise and activity, but when he appears relaxed and satisfied. And even those dogs, where everything fits perfectly, do not harm occasional rest days. However, the day of rest does not mean that the big round lasts only one hour today and I slack off practicing different signals such as “foot” and “stay”.

Day of rest means: We go outside to solve and we’re done. And no, it is not tricked at home either. If I get so sick that I can’t get any more, my dog ​​will be fine with it – he has learned that on some days nothing is necessary.

The same applies to the workload before being left alone: ​​Of course it is more pleasant and less boring if you are alone while you are can rest from a nice walk. But also here applies: If this should not be possible, my dog ​​has it much easier if he knows such situations – so I also practice them from time to time.

And if the previous day was exhausting for him, such comes “ Today we practice boredom! “Day often just right.

But what to do if it does happen?

Interrupt the behavior with a strict “No!”?
The word “no” as such has no meaning for our dogs at first – they first have to learn what we want to tell them: that we disagree with their behavior.

Unfortunately, most of them learn it by using a loud and sharp tone or by adopting a posture that appears threatening to them. Or the “no” is followed by an unpleasant consequence, such as a jerk on a leash.

A nudge “to get his attention” is one of the unpleasant consequences for dogs (and honestly, most people don’t like that too).

So we intimidate them and thereby inhibit their behavior. However, the problem that triggered the behavior remains. In addition, we do not tell them what we want from them instead .

Of course, you can train a “no” to ask for a desired alternative behavior, but when you overturn it is the case that the dog shows the behavior because he cannot do anything else – not because it would be fun.

Even if he manages to show the desired alternative behavior – his problem remains.

“Then I let him sit or walk until he calms down.”

” Sitting “, ” at foot ” etc. are signals in which our dogs should do what we want them to do attentively and with concentration. Especially in exciting situations, they require a lot of self-control. Dogs overturn, however, when far too many stimuli have poured in on them. Then there is no longer any ability to concentrate! And not self-control anyway – otherwise they wouldn’t freak out in the first place.

For ourselves, in such a situation, we would probably try a relaxation exercise or at least a deep breath rather than a brain teaser.

In the case of young dogs, there is also the fact that said signals could not be practiced long enough to be available in any situation in life. They often show behavior even during puberty: even what worked well before is suddenly no longer possible because the brain is too busy with “growing up”. On the contrary: it can be puberty that ensures that situations with which you were fine yesterday were overwhelming you today.

So what to do?

Leash the dog.
So I can slow down wild rushing carefully, but I can also use the leash to keep him away from me or my jacket sleeve. If it is really bad, I leash him somewhere and take a step aside so that he cannot jump or bite me.

Anyone who has already started to practice a relaxation signal in addition to the usual “basic obedience” is fine and can use it.

If the environment allows it (so it is not very stimulating), I can also just sit down for a moment, do the relaxation exercise myself and wait and see whether my dog ​​calms down too.

A few chunks of food that he can look for on the floor that he can “work through” can certainly help.

It becomes even easier if I incorporate such relaxation breaks into our walks every now and then: Just pause, take a little sniff, look at the area …

As far as possible, the shortest way home.

It can be difficult at first to assess when an activity should be better ended.
In addition to the diary, it helps to observe the dog very closely: what does it do just before it freaking out?

Oskar then started to seem defiant and unruly. Of course this is human, dogs are not defiant. But the fact that he looked like this was an important clue. If he then “picked up speed” – that is, he got faster, although he should have been tired, it was high time to go home.

So if your dog regularly gets his “wild 5 minutes”, it is definitely worth it to simply shift down a gear and see if it gets better. The method has the great advantage that you will not harm your dog under any circumstances. If he had an infection or a sprained paw, you would do the same thing without hesitation!

If that doesn’t work, or if “turning up” has already become a habit, a trainer can help you to find “blind spots” in the training plan and to practice calm. They can also assess whether it makes sense to consult a veterinarian to rule out health problems.
In most cases, the magic word is actually “rest”.

The post How To Stop Wild Behavior in Dogs appeared first on Dog Fiesta Online.

All of this needs to be processed first and for this your puppy needs rest.

Puppies need 20 to 22 hours of rest (sleeping, dozing, lying around relaxed) per day and even in the awake phases they do not have to get to know the whole house, its surroundings and all of their friends and neighbors immediately. For starters, it is enough to offer him a quiet room in which he will find a cozy bed, food and water.

Dogs have to learn to be alone slowly and in small steps. If your puppy wants to follow you every step of the way so as not to lose sight of his new caregiver again, leave him alone. Even if he is allowed to be there now, he will not want to accompany you to the toilet for life.

Control of the intestine and bladder must also be practiced first. As a rule of thumb, take the puppy outside after sleeping, after eating, and after playing. Otherwise, they simply pay attention to whether he becomes restless, seems to be looking for something, or even begins to squat down. In these cases, go to him calmly and slowly so that he may not startle you, crouch, gently lift him up, and carry him outside. When he has finished his business there, praise him. Please make sure that you do not praise too early (and possibly with great jubilation), so that he does not forget with excitement that he is actually ready to release himself.

Many puppies are initially unable to relieve themselves outside because they are too distracted or may be scared. Find a quiet, sheltered spot near your house for your puppy to make it a little easier. Carry your puppy to the selected spot: This will prevent it from loosening on the way there in the stairwell or on the sidewalk and it will get used to visiting natural soil from the start. They also save him from having to pull on a leash if it should be urgent.

Should a mishap happen to your puppy, please remove it calmly and without comment.

Some puppies become house-trained within a few days, others take several months. Don’t worry about it: sooner or later they’ll all learn it!

Puppies don’t go for a walk!

Puppies instinctively tend to stay near their litter burrow, which greatly increases their chances of survival in nature, and so many of them begin to “buck” as soon as they are supposed to move away from the house. On the way back, on the other hand, people pull hard on the leash to get back to safety as quickly as possible. Please be patient until your puppy wants to explore the world on its own. Until then, wear it: viewed from the safety of your arm, the world quickly loses its terror for a puppy.

Protect your puppy!

Every now and then you will come across things or living things that scare your puppy. Let him feel that you can support him competently in such moments and offer him a safe retreat: provide a distance from which he can look at the creepy object without fear. Take him in your arms, on your lap or let him escape between your legs. If it turns out, examine the object and let him watch it. Don’t ask him to come closer, but leave him if he wants to.

Fellow species, but also people – even if they mean it kindly – can be quite intrusive and cause great discomfort to a puppy. Please protect him even then.

Five minutes per day of life!

Whatever you heard about your dog’s running and activity needs: It relates to the adult dog! Walking on a leash is physically and mentally exhausting for your puppy and should always be adapted to its development.

Of course, puppies are active for a long time, play and romp around and do not look at the clock. Then, in contrast to a walk, you decide yourself when you want to take a break. Some of them also fail: they find no end without help and first have to learn to calm down.

People tend to watch their puppy’s first meals with excitement and joy: Feeding animals is fun and you also want to know if they like it! However, many puppies react to this with uncertainty and then do not trust themselves to their food. And the more fuss humans do in an effort to encourage them to eat, the more weird the whole thing becomes. So do not look so keen-eyed, pour the food, should the bowl be creepy, on a washable surface and simply give your dog time.

Whether your dog should later sleep in a separate room, in a basket in the bedroom, or in your bed is simply your decision: all variants have advantages and disadvantages. If you want it to be a separate room, please keep your puppy company there for the first few nights until he has learned to relax there alone. You will also notice when he becomes restless because he wants to go outside.

Training with a puppy

Please do not forget that your puppy is learning continuously, regardless of whether you are training in a structured way or if he is “just there”. It makes no difference to him.

A first signal that he can now learn without any problems is his own name: Speak to him by name when he is not distracted by something else and “have something for him” when he looks at you: a treat , a game, a petting – everything that he now enjoys! Please keep in mind that his name is just his name – he is not a substitute for “come here” or even “leave it!”.

You can practice the signal for the approach: speak it out when it is running towards you anyway and reward it when it reaches you (the moment you hand it over to it is very suitable for this).

In addition, you can simply praise any behavior that you would like to see more often.

Of course, you will not harm your puppy if he is already learning signals like “sit” or “place” in a playful way, but please do not lose sight of the fact that there is still a dog’s life for this.

The post The Most Important Tips for the First Days with Your Puppy appeared first on Dog Fiesta Online.

Worth knowing instructions about cleanliness training for puppies and adult dogs

This way your puppy / dog will be house trained

Training for house training in puppies is actually quite simple …
actually, because it requires a lot of human attention. The more often people “did not pay attention”, the longer it takes.

The simple rule is when to take your puppy outside:

• after eating
• after sleeping
• after playing

So more or less “always”. Well, in between the little one sleeps a little longer. Provided that people stay close to them.

Possible problems

Do you think your dog won’t notice if you use their sleep to take a quick shower or take out the trash? Of course he notices that. He wakes up. It is “after sleeping”. He has to . And besides, you are not to be seen, so it could be that he gets some stress as well. A small child would scream now or after the “ Mamaaaaaa !!! ” call. A puppy does not necessarily whine when it feels left alone. Some are silent, yet worried. And quickly pee on the carpet.

That would be a very typical situation, and man is ” to blame ” for not being able to see his little dog waking up. Once again he ” practiced ” to loosen himself on the carpet.

Stay stressed alone

I just mentioned stress. Quite a few dogs really suffer when people leave the room. Not only when he leaves the apartment, but also when he goes to another floor. This is nothing special for humans, it is ” there “, just not to be seen. The puppy has no idea where his person is going to. He cannot go because there is a staircase or a children’s gate in between. Humans have not made any special signs, so the puppy does not know what is going on. Maybe the weird biped has forgotten him?

Regardless of whether your dog has just not yet learned to stay alone or if he is already suffering from separation stress: staying alone is very unusual for puppies and adult dogs often do not feel as comfortable as they do with their people. And that is exactly what can cause adult dogs to empty themselves in the house.

Human reaction when ” IT ” has happened

Depending on how people react when they see the mishap, the puppy can interpret the situation differently. If the person scolds when wiping up, it could be that the puppy is going to be more hidden in the future: in a corner of the room, behind the large flower pot, in an adjoining room. Especially if the owner catches the puppy in the act and then scolds him properly, the puppy would rather not do his business in the presence of humans. Better not outdoors …

As always when training good behavior, it should be worth it for the young dog if he does everything correctly. So that he understands that it is super-duper-mega-great to put a stream or heap on the lawn, there are delicious pieces of food and very friendly praise. You are also welcome to play with your puppy.

To note from garden owners with (desire for) beautiful lawn: the urine of dogs makes yellow spots in the lawn. If you have a male, he will pee along the fence and raise his leg. Bitches find the green, soft lawn class and like to crouch there. This creates the yellow dropouts …
So think about what you want from the adult dog and train exactly where he can later do his business.

Clean properly

So if your dog has come loose in the house, wipe it up calmly and without comment. By the way, you should never use vinegar cleaners or cleaners with strong smells (ammonia), because they encourage you to pee on them. In contrast, an enzyme cleaner is ideal.

Recognize the signs

Each dog shows in its own way that it has to get out. Some go straight to the front door. Others turn in a circle, and would then do on the spot, others leave the room and go to an undisturbed place. Many dogs sniff the ground before they come loose. You can only see what your dog does to prepare for its business. And to react in time in the future, you have to be very careful.

If you notice that your puppy is spinning and spinning, or sniffing the ground as if looking for something, you immediately take him in your arms and bring him to his release point. There you drop it off and just wait in peace until it can come loose. This can take a few minutes, because everything outside is exciting, sometimes scary. It would be great if you have already done a little relaxation training and can say your relaxation word. Because relaxed, it is much easier for your dog to do what you expect in the right place.

Cold, wet and other stressors

Many dogs don’t like it when it’s wet and cold. Many a puppy really seems to think it is unreasonable to be outside in THE WEATHER!
As soon as you are back inside without doing anything, he can do what he should have done outside … and you can wipe up and pull yourself together.

Maybe you just have to make it tasty for your puppy to go outside in the rain. You could take small pieces of sausage with you and throw a dice forward for each step. So he has distraction, hopefully he is happy and relaxes through movement and searching. You can praise him for how brave he is. Warm up a bit, play and run together. Then you make an end signal for the end of the game sequence, stop and just wait a little. Maybe light stroking will help you relax a little more.
And never forget to party when your little dog does its business. Hey, he’s the hero!

The adult dog and the thing with the ground

It is not uncommon for adult dogs to be not completely house-trained. There are many reasons. Sometimes it is up to the breeder who either did nothing or practiced on an unfavorable surface. Some take, for example, an old carpet or towels as the “right” release point. There are also fleece mats especially for dogs that are intended for this purpose. When the dog no longer has its mat in the new home, it looks for the object that is most similar to it: the carpet.
Other dogs are used to surfaces that you cannot offer outdoors, such as bark mulch or sawdust.
My first puppy was used to grass and then had to persevere in the city until he found a tuft of grass somewhere….
This is the dog version of the “Not-my-toilet syndrome ”.

Physical causes

In adult dogs (but of course also in puppies!), Physical causes can also be the reason why the dog loosens in the house. Cystitis and other diseases can go unnoticed. It makes sense to plan a visit to the vet if you don’t see any reasonable reason why your dog is still cleaning it up.

Which is clearly NOT

• It is by no means ” protestpee” when your dog pees in the house.
• It is by no means ” poop to annoy the Herrle” if your dog puts his piles in the house owner’s slippers.
• It is definitely not ” dominance” when a dog goes into the house / bed / anywhere else.

It is not an evil intention!

If your dog makes a ” guilty face “, it is more likely that your dog has a bad experience associated with your appearance. That needn’t be a punishment in your mind. It’s often enough if you’re like “ Oh shit, does that have to be? “Whine as soon as you come into the house.
Sure, you are tired and want to enjoy your deserved end of the day. And instead you can clean first … that’s hard.

With understanding for success

But I think your dog will be hit hard too. Because think about it. Imagine that you are dependent on others to go where you can do what you have to do. You have to and you are waiting. You eat it. Then the rescuer comes, but you put it off well. NOW you should be able to. It does not work. Much too tense. Too cold. Too exciting. Too dark. Too many people.

Back home, nice and warm, familiar, all good. Now it’s working.

Of course, I’m interpreting wildly here, that’s for sure. I also never want to say that I know what dogs think. But if you just imagine it like this or something similar, you have more patience and understanding for your dog.
If you know that your dog is not annoying you with its behavior, you can react much more relaxed. You can think about how you can make it use a suitable place.
When considering, definitely think of separation stress, from which a lot more dogs suffer than their owners often believe. Not every dog ​​with separation stress destroys pillows and sofas, some do nothing and some … exactly!

The welcome pee can also fall under this heading: You come home and your dog is so happy that he pee during the welcome …

And if you don’t find anything, examine your daily routine. Stress can also arise from too many walks or activities, but also from too little of it.
Or there are things that scare your dog and cause stress.

A good trainer can help you with the search and has ideas on what measures your dog can take to ensure that its release point is not in the apartment.

I wish you all the best!

The post How to House Train Your Puppy or Adult Dog appeared first on Dog Fiesta Online.